In 2023, we were honored to receive a gracious invitation from Kate Otten and her talented team at Kate Otten Architects to collaborate on a piece titled 'threads' for the Venice Biennale Architettura 2023. The event, held under the theme The Laboratory of the Future and curated by the visionary Prof Lesley Lokko, provided an incredible platform for creative exploration and dialogue.
This is a short story about our unforgettable first experience in Venice.
It is the 16th of May 2023, and I find myself aboard a Turkish airline flight, journeying to a city I've only known through the pages of storybooks. My flight from Johannesburg to Venice has been riddled with anxiety, grappling with the idea of a city built on water. The rainy and gloomy weather in Venice adds to my nerves, prompting me to buy a cute pink plastic raincoat from a little shop, ready to embrace my first water bus ride.
As the water-bus fills with passengers, we descend into the water, and an extraordinary transformation occurs. It feels as though I am transcending space and time, entering a parallel universe. Reality fades away, and I'm embraced by an otherworldly atmosphere. Everywhere I look, ancient buildings and meandering canals create a dramatic setting, transporting me back in time. It's as if I've stepped into the pages of one of those storybooks, filled with tales of aged mystery and fantasy.
During the 20-minute ride on the charming water-bus, I'm overwhelmed by the sheer beauty of Venice. The architectural marvels and the picturesque canals leave me in awe. However, my excitement reaches a new level when I spot a big poster that reads, "Biennale 2023 Archittettura - The Laboratory of the Future. La Biennale di Venezia." It's a gentle reminder of the purpose of my trip—to experience the Biennale and explore the innovative architecture of the future.
As the water-bus glides through the enchanting city, it makes an abrupt stop at one of the bus stops. Amidst the sea of people, I notice a black woman boarding the bus. It strikes me that she might be one of the few black residents in Venice. Fatigue seems evident on her face, and her worn clothes and neglected hair lead me to speculate that she could be a migrant, possibly working as a domestic worker in the city. As she walks past me without making eye contact, I find myself eager to acknowledge her presence, as we are the only two black individuals on this boat. However, my attempt at a connection goes unnoticed, and my mind starts to wander into a darker place as the water-bus slowly makes its way to the next stop.
How does one come to appreciate and love a city built on the legacy of colonisation and slavery? Annoyed by these thoughts, I struggle to shake them off. While gazing at a beautiful building that resembles a luxurious five-star hotel on the canal bank, I feel resentment that their history remains uninterrupted, allowing them to look at these old structures and read history books that connect them to their past. In contrast, for someone like me, grappling with questions of identity and history, the experience becomes one of intense highs and questioning lows.
Before going too deep into the shadows of uncertainty, I talk myself out of the strange feeling that momentarily overcame me. Instead, my heart fills with anticipation for the days that lie ahead. Venice has already proven to be a magical place, and the prospect of immersing myself in its artistic and architectural wonders at the Biennale fills me with excitement. As I embark on this journey to the fabled city, I can't help but feel that every moment will be a delightful blend of wonder, discovery, and the realisation of a long-held dream, once confined only to the pages of cherished storybooks